Knitted fabric with elastic selvage



July 31, 1945.

R. H. LAWSON KNITTED FABRIC WITH ELASTIC SELVAGE Filed Feb. 10, 1944 Zhvefflor ROBE/QT hf LAM/JON Patented July 31, 1945 UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE KNITTED FABRIC WITH ELASTIC SELVAGE Robert H. Lawson, Lakeport, N. H., asslgnor to Scott & Williams, Incorporated, Laconla, N. H., a corporation of Massachusetts Application February 10, 1944, Serial No. 521,838

10 Claims. (Cl. 66-172) This invention relates to knitted fabrics in general, and more particularly to plain knit, as distinguished from rib knit, fabric and particularly to knitted non-curling selvages applicable to self-supporting stocking tops in which the make-up or selvage courses are preferably formed exclusively of elastic thread.

An object of the invention is to avoid the natural tendency of the selvages of plain knit (as distinguished from rib knit) fabrics to curl outward. Various expedients have been employed in attempting to overcome this outward curling but they have not been wholly satisfactory.

Other objects will appear from the following specification.

In the drawing Fig. 1 is a conventional view of a stocking indicating the incorporation of elastic threads in the courses of the top of a stocking;

Fig. 2 is a diagrammatic view showing the theoretical course by course stitch construction of the make-up courses;

Fig. 3 is a view corresponding to Fig. 2 but showing the actual stitch construction resulting from the distortion of the courses and wales by the tensioned elastic thread;

Fig. 4 is an enlarged diagrammatic view showing the interlacing of the elastic thread used in the portion of the top of a stocking which follows the selvage as shown at the lower right corner of Fig. 2; and

Fig. 5 is a diagrammatic view of the first few courses corresponding to Fig. 2 on a reduced scale, showing the first and last wales of the beginning of the selvage where elastic thread is first introduced.

The stocking of Fig. 1, indicated generally by the numeral I, is provided with an elastic selvage 2 of novel construction. The remaining portion of the top 3, which is,plain knit but has the appearance of the usual rib top, is shown as being constructed by interlacing a second elastic thread in courses knitted with an inelastic yarn, the. said elastic thread, interlaced in a manner hereafter to be described, contracting the top portion 3 of the stocking as indicated in Fig. 1, to simulate the usual ribbed appearance in the tops of stockings.

Integrally or otherwise connected to the top of the stocking is a, leg 4 connected to which are a heel, foot and toe, all of which may be of any desired construction, the present invention perside or face of the fabric is shown, knitting proceeding from the top to the bottompf the several figures and from the left to the right, i. e., the wales at the left are the first wales knitted. In Figs. 2 and 3, the wales 'are'numbered successively I, II, III, IV, I etc., from left to right.

In the illustrated example, Figs. 2 and 3, the first four courses are shown as knitted with an elastic thread I, which may be fed to the needles through a suitable lever. To effect the knitting of the first course, every other needle is elevated to engage the elastic thread in the hooks; for the knitting of the second course, elastic thread, preferably the first .course elastic thread, is fed into the hooks of all the needles, thus effecting the beginning of the knitting on needles bare of thread in the manner disclosed, for exampleyi'n the Scott Patent 1,148,055, July 27, 1915.

To avoid the natural outward-curling tendency of a plain knitted (-not ribbed) selvage fabric, following courses, and in the illustrated example the third and fourth courses, are knitted with elastic thread, which may be a previously incorporated elastic thread, such as the thread 1, which is knitted by the needles at wales Ithat is, at every fourth wale. In the 3rd and 4th courses, the said elastic thread is not knitted or engaged in the hooks of the needles that knit the intervening wales II, III and IV, said thread consequently floating across the said wales as indicated in Fig. 2.

The floating of the elastic thread, as across the wales II, III and IV, for at least two courses, provides a short welt which virtually eliminates the curling tendency of the plain knitted, single edge top resulting from the knitting of the elastic thread in the first four courses. Following the knitting of the fourth course, a relatively non-elastic yarn H is fed to and knitted by all of the needles throughout the top 3 of the stocktaining solely to the construction of the top of the stocking.

In the several figures of the drawing, the outing, during the knitting of which following courses an elastic thread, preferably a second elastic thread I8, is fed into the hooks of recurring groups of three needles, e. g. the needles that' knit the intervening wales, such as 11, III and IV.

knitting, being engaged in a clamp in a manner common in hosiery knitting machines, as for example shown in the patent to Scott 1,282,958, Oct. 29, 1918. Thereafter the needles knit the inelastic yarn H, as shown at the right of the flfthcourse of Fig. 2.

As indicated in Fig. 2, the first elastic thread I is last knitted at a wale IV, whereas the inelastic yarn I1 is first knitted at a preceding wale I. Thus, as shown by way of example in Fig. 2, the elastic thread I and inelastic yarn II are both knitted to form an overlap in four needle wales. The number of overlap needle wales can be varied. The specific wales at which the overlap is provided may also be varied.

To provide a simulated rib top 3 as shown in Fig. l, the second elastic thread I! is, preferably, incorporated in each course in which the inelastic thread I! is knitted throughout the top 3 of the stocking. As indicated by way of example in Fig. 2, the elastic thread I8 is first incorporated in awale I and then in the following wales II, III, and IV, thus overlapping the elastic thread I which is knitted in those wales together with the inelastic yarn II. In the operation of a circular knitting machine, the elastic thread 1 is withdrawn at a main feeding station. As the last needle to knit the said elastic thread 1 moves around the needle circle to a point about 180 in advance of the point of withdrawal ,of thread I, the second elastic thread I. is inserted to effect the overlapping of the two elastic threads shown at the bottom ,of Fig. 2. The wale at which the elastic thread It! is introduced may be varied. It is desirable that the second elastic thread l8 overlap the elastic thread 1. If a course or a substantial part thereof be knitted without either the elastic thread I or the elastic thread It, a pocket will be formed coursewise of the top immediately following the make-up elastic 1st, 2nd, 3rd and 4th courses, and such courses, which bunch up more or less in the form of a cord, will roll outward into the pocket. If a few wales are knitted without the presence of either elastic thread, there will be no substantial tendency of the top to curl or roll, but, as hereinbefore stated, if a substantial part of the course following the make-up courses is devoid of either elastic thread, the selvage edge will curl or roll outward to some degree.

Following the overlapping, the remainder of the top 3 is preferably, knitted in the manner indicated in Fig. 4. To efl'ect inlaying or interlacing of the elastic thread I! as in Fig. 4, the said elastic thread is fed into the hooks of groups of three consecutive needles, for example, the needles that knit the wales II, III, and IV, and is fed so as not to be engaged in the hooks of the needles that knit the wales I, in the manner disclosed in the Sturgess British Patent 4418 of 886 for example. When fed in the manner just described. the elastic thread It floats across the needle wales knitted by the needles into the hooks of which the said elastic thread is engaged, said elastic thread being held or clamped between every fourth needle wale (the hooks of which needles do not engage the said elastic thread) and adjacent sinker wales 38 and 3|, giiich holding or clamping being indicated in 4- tion of rib knitting, i. e. to provide vertical ribs in the top 3.

The elastic selvage form described above is illustrated diagrammatically in Fig. 2. As shown in that figure, the first four courses are knit wholly of elastic thread and may, desirably, be knit from the same continuous elastic thread I. The fifth course, as shown in this Fig. 2, is the course in which a change is made from the elastic thread I of the selvage to the non-elastic yarn H of the top 3 of the stocking. As shown in Fig. 2, the first few wales of the 5th course on the left of Fig. 2 are composed wholly of the elastic thread I; in wale I the inelastic yarn I1 is first introduced and is knit together with the elastic thread 1 for a few wales, as for example, in I, II, III and IV, and in the next 'wale the elastic thread 1 is dropped and the knitting of the 5th course from the point on is continued with inelastic yarn l1. Subsequent courses are knit of the inelastic yarn II. In the 5th course the second elastic thread is is introduced as an inlay yarn which is continued through the rest of the top 3 of the stocking.

As shown in Fig. 2, the flrst course of elastic thread I is knit at every other wale forming a stitch I 9 in wale I, a long float 2| across wale II, a stitch 2| knit in wale III, a long float 22 across wale IV, and another stitch ll knit in the next wale I. The second course preferably of the same elastic thread 1, comprises a loop 28 in each wale I, and also a loop 24 in each of wales II, III and'IV. Loop 23 of the 2nd course is interknit with loops is and 28 of the 1st and 3rd courses respectively; while loops 24 of the 2nd course are interknit with the 5th course. In

, the 3rd course, the elastic thread 1 forms a loop 25 which is interknit in wale I with loop 23 of the preceding course, after which the elastic thread floats at 26 across the three multi-course loops 24 in the wales II, III and IV, at the tennination of which a loop 25 in the next wale I is repeated. The 4th course is a repetition of the 3rd course, loop 21 being interlooped i'n wale I with the loop 25 of the preceding course, after which the thread of the 4th course floats at 28 across wales II, III and IV, after which wale I is repeated. In the 5th course, a stitch is knit at every needle, 1. e. in each wale, first of elastic thread I for a number of wales, then of the cluetic thread I and the inelastic yarn l1 knit together as shown for example, from wales I to IV, inclusive, and thereafter for the rest of the course from inelastic yarn I! alone. In this course also the second elastic thread It is incorporated, beginning at or near the point where the flrst elastic thread 1 is held when said first elastic yarn 1 is dropped at the end of the selvage. At the As a consequence of the holding of the elastic drawn toward one another to effect a simula-.

6th course and throughout the rest of the top 3 015 the stocking, the knittng is from the inelastic yarn.

The construction of the salvage as it actually appears, as illustrated in Fig. 3, will now be desc ibed.

In Fig. 3, as previously stated, are shown the first five courses of Fig. 2 as they actually appear, the diiference in the showing of Figs: 2 and 3 resulting from the distortion of the selvage or make-up courses due to the knitting therein of tensioned elastic thread, such as I.

The theoretical first course loops of Fig. 2 flatten out in the actual fabric, the loops ll of wale I of Fig. 2 appearing in exaggerated form in Fig. 3; the long loop II which floats across wale II of Fig. 2 appearing in Fig. 3 in front ot'thestitch 32 knitted of the inelastic yarn IT in the fifth course, the following loop 2| (reading from the left to the right of Figs. 2 and 3) passing in front ofthe stitch33 next adjacent to the previously mentioned loop or stitch in the fifth course. Continuing to the right in Fig. 3, the loop 22 passes t1; the front of the next fifth course needle stitch 3 Comparing the second course of Figs. 2 and .3: the needle loop or stitch 23 of Fig. 2 appears more or less as a float in Fig. 3, passing in front of the fourth course stitch 21. The loops 24 of the 2nd course are shown in Fig. 3 as extending back of the corresponding needle loops of the fifth course and passing in front of the first course loops 2 I.

Comparing the third courses of Figs. 2 and 3, the knitted loop or stitch 25 in wale I of Fig. 2 appears more or less in loop form in Fig. 3. From the loop 25 in wale I of Fig. 2, the elastic thread passes through the second course loop 23 and then floats across three needle loops 24 in wales II, III and. IV, respectively, at 26. The distortion of the fabric, Fig. 3. causes loops 25 to pass in front of the loops 35 in the fifth course, at wales I. The arms of loop 25 pass from under loops 2! of the 4th course which it is interknitted, between 1st and 2nd course loops l9 and 23, said arms terminating in the float 26.

Comparing the fourth courses of Figs. 2 and 3 the knitted loops or stitches 21 are shown, Fig. 2,

as being drawn through previous course loops or stitches 25 in wale I and in the actual fabric, Fig. 3, the loop 21 retains its identity. As indicated in both Figs. 2 and 3, the first inelastic yarn course knitted of yarn I1 is interknitted with the loops 2'! in wale I as well as with loops 24 in wales II, III and IV, respectively. After passing around the inelastic yarn I! of the th course, the loops 2'! pass through or around the previous course stitches 2'5 and under loops 23 and I9 of the 2nd and 1st courses respectively, emerging in floats 28, which span three needle wales II, III and IV. In the completed fabric, Fig. 3, the float 28 appears as the topmost float, adjacent to which is the corresponding third course float 26.

In Fig. 5 are shown a few wales and courses diagrammatically illustrating the beginning of the selvage. The first and last loops formed in the first course, such as loops and 22 respectively, are staggered on opposite sides of a wale, such as wale I, in a manner which is usual in selvage edges which are set up directly on the bare needles. The wale where the thread I of the selvage is first knitted may be any wale in the circumference of the fabric such as wale I in Fig. 2'.

The construction hereinbefore described may be knitted on any type of knitting machine and especially those having independently movable needles.

The number of make-up courses (four being shown in the drawing) may be varied, e. g., the float courses (3rd and 4th) are not limited to two in number.

Reference herein to the knitting of thread I! by all the needles is not intended to eliminate the posibility of knitting fancy stitches in the top of the stocking, as by floating or tucking.

For convenience, the elastic threads or yarns are herein referred to as threads while the inelastic thread or yarn I1 is referred to as a y n In the foregoing description reference has been made to the knitting of-stocking tops; while particularly' adaptable to the knitting of self-supporting-stocking tops, the invention, in its broader aspects, is suitable for the knitting of selvaged elastic fabrics in general and more particularly for cuffs for any purpose, the scope of the invention being defined in the appended claims.

I claim: 1

1. .A knitted fabric having selvage or makeup courses formed exclusively of elastic thread, said elastic thread having a stitch'in each wale of the second course, said elastic-thread bein interknitted at spaced wales and floated across intervening wales in at least two courses following the said second course, inelastic yarn being knitted in courses knitted subsequently to the knitting of the float courses and elastic thread incorporated in at least some of said subsequent courses.

2. A knitted fabric having selvage or makeup courses formed exclusively of elastic thread, said elastic thread having a stitch in each wale of the second course, said elastic thread being interknitted at spaced wales and floated across at least three needle wales in at least two courses following the said second course, inelastic yarn being knitted in courses knitted subsequently to the knitting of the float courses and elastic thread incorporated in at least some of said subsequent courses.

3. .A knitted fabric having selvage of makeup courses formed exclusively of elastic thread, including a stitch of said elastic thread in every other needle wale of the first course and in every needle wale of the second course, said elastic thread being interknitted at spaced wales and floated across intervening wales in at least two courses following the said second course, inelastic yarn being knitted in courses knitted subsequently to the knitting of the float courses and elastic thread incorporated in at least some of said subsequent courses.

4. In a knitted fabric a selvage having elastic yarn alone incorporated in the first few courses, there being following courses knitted of an inelastic yarn and a second elastic yarn interlocked in each of a plurality of said following courses,

- the two elastic yarns overlappingat a plurality of wales in at least one course.

5. In a knitted fabric a selvage having elastic yarn alone incorporated in the first few courses, there being following courses knitted of an inelastic yarn and a second elasticyarn interlocked at spaced wales in each of a plurality of said following courses, the two elastic yarns overlapping at a plurality of wales in at least one course.

6. In a knitted fabric a selvage having elastic yarn alone incorporated in the first few courses, there being following courses knitted of an inelastic yarn and a second elastic yarn inlaid in each of a plurality of said following courses, the two elastic yarns overlapping at a plurality of wales in at least one course.

7. In a knitted fabric a selvage having elastic yarn alone incorporated in the first few courses, there being following courses knitted of an inelastic yarn and a second elastic yarn inlaid and held at spaced wales in each of a plurality of said following courses, the two elastic yarns overlapping at a plurality of wales in at least one course.

8. An elastic thread selvage for a knitted fabric consisting of at least four courses of elastic thread alone, said elastic thread having a' stitch in each wale of the second course, strands of the courses 4- aasmes following the first: two "courses appearing as multi-wale. floats at the edge of the fabric, said strands being. interlocked with the fabric where not appearing asfloats.

9; An elastic. thread selvage for-a knitted fabric 5 consisting of at least four courses of elastic thread alone, said elastic thread having a stitch in each Wale of the second course, strands of the courses following the first two; courses appearing as three-Wale floats at the edge of the fabric,said strands being interlocked with the fabricv where not appearing as floats;

10;. In a. knitted fabric. a salvage knitted with the-wales at which said thread is knit in said makeup courses, in combination with followin courses in which elastic thread is inlaid. V

ROBERT H. LAWSON; 

